Surfing like a kook

2 Sep

Despite having fun in the surf at Mawgan Porth this afternoon, I surfed like a kook.

The conditions were perfect for longboarding, glassy, wedgy and with the setting sun, almost like a scene from the Endless Summer. The surfing was far from it. My arms flailed when paddling. I slid off the front of the board, legs akimbo. I stepped on the rail and generally wobbled and lurched around like I’d never surfed before.

Why, you ask? The reason is that I am a short boarder at heart. Whilst I love to cruise on a log, my dream is to rip, shred and hack. I want to chuck my board around, flinging arcs of spray in the air like a pro. I am under no illusions, I am far from it, but I do know that I am much happier with less foam under my feet.

Tomorrow, with a bit of swell, I will be back on a 6′ something. Although I have yet to retire my longboard (I will learn to cross step), pushing myself on a smaller board is where it’s at for me right now.

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One Response to “Surfing like a kook”

  1. daddyfumanchu September 2, 2011 at 11:33 pm #

    haha…..like it!

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