A Tribute to Andy Irons

3 Nov

 

Andy Irons was my favourite surfer.

Not because he was 3 times World Champion or his poster boy good looks, but because of his brilliance and passion. 

It was Jack McCoys surfing documentary, Blue Horizon, that opened my eyes to Andy Irons.  Whilst  it portrayed Dave Rastovich as the über-cool soul surfer,  it was Andy Irons’  competitive, hot-headed and paranoid anti-hero that stood out to me.   I could relate to a person so ruled by emotion.  It made me understand the passion in his surfing.

From then I have followed Andy’s career closely, its ups and its downs, and it gave me immense pleasure to watch him win the Billabong Pro Teahupoo this August. 

Brilliant but flawed, Andy was a true hero in my mind.  I mourn his passing with the rest of the surf community.

Genesis 1:1-2

In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth. The earth was without form and void, and darkness was over the face of the deep. And the Spirit of God was hovering over the face of the waters

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