Full of the joys of an Autumn Swell

24 Sep

Autumn is well and truly here.  Whilst my work colleagues were lamenting that we were not experiencing the Indian summer that they were expecting, the surf community in Cornwall jumped into action.

Last weekend, the isobars on the weather reports hinted that something special was coming our way.  The surf forecasting websites, with their new long-range abilities had more stars than Sunset Boulevard. Sure enough, as the week unfolded and the winds dropped, we all flocked to our favourite spots. 

Clinging to the railings in the car park at Watergate Bay, I watched the lines march in, and  hesitated.   The tide at was lower than I had expected, and the sets were head height and breaking fast.  I looked around and realised girls with boards of all shapes and sizes were heading for the sea.  After a summer of surfing white, windy slop, this was what I had been waiting for, it was no time to wimp out! 

I paddled out to the line up, my heart pounding.  Soon enough it was clear that I was more comfortable than I expected.  I sat in the line up alongside several guys who looked slightly nerve wracked, and I realised that I wasn’t afraid at all.  My confidence boosted, and some fine right-handers under my belt, I was smiling at the world.  A friendly nod from a sponsored female long boarder, and a great ride back to the beach, I was stoked and smug.

So why is this weekend bothering me?  Hurricane Igor is hitting the coast, and the conversation in the canteen is on a singular subject; where to go.  South coast spots, not so secret point breaks, windy well-known breaks?

I have almost resigned myself to sitting in the car, watching forlornly whilst listening to Radio One.  Why I am I so unsure?  I have surf anxiety.  Can I recreate the good surf I had this week, or am I nervous because I will be out of my comfort zone?

The reality is, until I am there tomorrow, I will not know.    I have waited all year for the Autumn swells, and as always the biggest challenge is inside my head.

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One Response to “Full of the joys of an Autumn Swell”

  1. Kaya Lucy September 27, 2010 at 8:16 pm #

    On Saturday morning, we decided to drive up the coast to Polzeath. I literally jumped around the car in glee at the cleanish 4-5ft sets that were rolling in. I had a great surf. All that worrying for nothing!

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